Re-visiting sourdough lamination for croissants after we’ve incorporated some new changes in our workflow. Today we’re making a savory favorite: Za’atar Pinwheels.
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Proof Bread is a modern throwback to a way of life that values small-scale craftsmanship, local community, and creativity.
We are a team of passionate bakers working in a historic building in downtown Mesa that has been converted into a retail bakery.
Everything we bake is long-fermented with our sourdough starter ‘Harriet’. Each product is artisan, crafted by hand, from the best local ingredients, with no shortcuts.
We bake in line with 13,000 years of human history, avoiding artificial processes and unnecessary ingredients. Honoring tradition and serving better bread for our community.
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Today we're making a interesting special It's a Savory pastry it's made with a Flavor that's very traditional to Amanda's family it's zata there's Different variants of it this one the Core ingredient is sesame seeds some Toasted sesame seeds with thyme sumac And salt now I'm going to mix it with Extra virgin olive oil to a one to one Ratio so I'm just weighing out the zatar On a scale and for now I'll just mix a Little bit of this can so I've weighed Out 200 grams of the zata I'm going to Tear my scale and add the same amount of Weight in olive oil this is another Example of how useful scales are I I Suppose you could measure these things Number of ways I've said this a lot of Times you know the scales are just a Really great way of preparing anything And of course baking in general I can't Imagine working without the scale system So really I'm just stirring these two Ingredients together now to form a paste And I've come up with that one to one Ratio we're just looking for a texture That's a bit spreadable similar to how We make other other types of pinwheels We're looking for for that pace you Don't want a situation where you have a Lot of dry powdery herbs And you don't want a situation where you Have more oil That can't really be absorbed and that's
Really all there is to it it's nice to Add another Savory option on the menu We've had this salted Rosemary Twist on The menu as a staple for years one of The reasons I love sourdough crisanto as Much as I do is that it's not overly Sweet you can put a Savory application On it you can put a sweeter filling like Say our morning Bunch for like a Cinnamon roll very similar overall Process they're both pinwheels they're Both rolled up very similarly the dough Can be the same The Filling changes and The entire experience is a different one So we'll take a look at the final Product a little bit later we've got Some sourdough croissant dough to make So today we're making the zatar Pinwheels and we're starting the process In day two of a three day croissant Dough process day two is after having Mixed the croissant dough bulk fermented It stretched it into sheets chilled it And so we have two sheets of croissant Dough here on this uh sheet tray and It's uh combining with our lamination Butter this is definitely an upgrade Since the last time I did any kind of Lamination on film Because last time I did this we were Still using blocks of butter and making Them into croissant sheets We had The ability to upgrade our butter Supply
Butter is not something that is as Robust of food and of itself in the U.S As it is in other parts of the world Like when you think of France you often Think of butter certainly there's some Good sources of butter in the U.S too But other parts of the world like really Take this seriously where you you can go Down a main street of a city center and Still see stores that just make butter Fresh you don't really see that very Often Around around the U.S so we're getting Butter Imported that's already ready for Lamination and it's a really high Quality butter better than I could buy Domestically you can even see by the Color it's got this beautiful kind of Yellowish color to it That it's a nice sign of uh of high Quality this butter is at the right Temperature so I can tell by touch and That temperature usually is around 60 Degrees it's coupling with cold dough And the cold dough is a really important Element because as I stretch this out Through the sheeter what's going to end Up happening is the butter is going to Warm with the friction of the sheeter And the dough is going to keep it Chilled at that same constant range Where it's pliable and spreadable Won't crack and won't melt that's the
The really difficult uh aspect of of Lamination particular is that you're Trying to prevent those two things from Happening you're trying to prevent it From being so cold that it cracks or so Warm that it melts and your your actual Forgiveness Factor there is somewhat low You can see that this is just In addition to being a higher quality Butter for us it's a massive massive Savings in time for our most expensive Input which of course is human labor so Now we can pull from the fridge these Sheets we can get them to the right Temperature as we're ready to laminate And just put in together with our our Dough sheets so I'm starting on the Thickest setting the biggest risk to my Lamination right off the bat is because Of the shape and size of these sheets The dough sheets themselves can't be Stretched out to a full sheet pan They're a little bit narrower and as a Result they're a little thicker and so My biggest risk in the whole process is This first one this first pass where my Sheet is very thick went through it just Fine And so now that I've actually passed Through the rollers I know I'm going to Have a decent amount of Success Through The process My first aim Is to get this uh particular
Block to be about the width of the Sheeter which is kind of a common theme Through this process that's usually at About a level of 21 on my roller here Which indicates thickness so I'm going To rotate And you can see that my sheet is roughly The width of the device And now I'm going to take it down all The way to eight and so when I'm saying These numbers 0 to 30 is my range the Smaller the number the closer the wheels Of the Rolling Pin are together and uh And so I'm basically thinning the Croissant dough and stretching it So with each pass it's getting longer Now and now I'm down to a 12 So I'm actually going to pass it all the Way through without flattening it and Finish it on this side at the Final thickness for this part in the Process I've created a lot of tension stretching It so the first thing I'm going to do is Gently release some of that tension the Tension actually Keeps through the process if I don't Release the tension I'm just adding more And more tension over time and so then I'm going to have that Snapback effect Of a rubber band sometime during the Process in order to now finish I want to Cut my sheet even To the butter line so if there's any
Piece that's not that I can tell doesn't Have butter I'm cutting that out this One was pretty even you can still see Butter in this I'm just mostly cutting It for for the evenness sake and I would Do the same thing on the edges so if I Notice that there was a big thick piece Of dough on the edge that didn't have Butter then I would trim that although I Really don't have that here I have a Pretty nice even sheet And so I'm going to fold it over into What we call a book fold on this side However I have more of a triangle shape The butter is spread throughout I'm Going to cut this end into strips And now fold it over Into my book fold So this is the first step of the book Fold so I get this far I can also Examine the edges and see where my Butter line is I can literally feel it The butter has a has like a harder Consistency so I can feel that there's Butter and then I can feel that it Breaks right here and the rest of this Is just pure dough what I can do to not Lose this dough is trim the end So I basically cut out what is just Dough there's no butter in it at the Edge here now I already have butter I've Created a sandwich one layer of dough One layer of butter one layer of dough I've folded it together and so now
Actually in this stage I've got dough Butter dough another dough which will Just fuse together as one layer butter Dough so I'm going to do the same kind Of work here on the edge and just cut Off Anything that isn't Laminated And so I have these scraps and what to Do with these scraps there's really no Reason to lose them because for the most Part this is just dough and if I put it On this top layer and continue to Laminate it's going to thin out and it Will just become a layer of dough in my Block I if I Chuck this dough right now I'm just putting valuable croissant Dough that we've bulk fermented we've Spent a lot on the ingredients and the Labor into the garbage can when it could Still produce really nice croissants So now I have my first Level of lamination this is a book fold So I've taken the book and closed it if I was to store this dough if it was too Warm meaning if my butter was going to Start to melt right now I would indent It once put it in the fridge wait 30 Minutes let the butter cool down a Little and then move on to Layer Two What we decided though a long time ago Was that our dough is cold enough and Pliable enough to go through the second Fold process right off the bat and so
I'm going to go through that really Quick it's only going to take a minute Same concept here I'm going to stretch It out to the width Rotate it Now bring it down further And I'm ending at the number nine Because I know that when I do my letter Fold this time at the number nine I'm Still going to be able to Fit The dough on a tray so now I'm no longer worried about trimmings Because I've got those taken care of in The first fold Releasing tension and I'm going to do a Letter fold so that's third of the way I'm going Into thirds So there is my second fold I'm going to Indent it twice to let Anyone in the facility know that this Sheet is not fully laminated it's Two-thirds of the way and I'll give you Guys a look at the layers which are Usually the worst of the edges but you Can see after two folds That's the layering of dough butter Dough butter so now you can see a lot More layers in there of dough butter Dough butter I've literally multiplied By three and I will do this one more Time to get to my final sheet of Croissant dough but if I do it too early
The butter is going to start to melt on Me so I need to throw this block into The fridge now for about 30 minutes and I can address it anytime between 30 Minutes from now and let's say a few Hours if need be All right so my dough now has cooled Down the butter is nice and firm again So I'm not going to risk melting it Going to my third fold so I have two Indents here telling me that it's the Second fold I need to finish out the Lamination now so I'll create all the Remaining layers that there are and Still Have a block which will then cool down Until we're ready to roll out at that Point we can pass it through the sheeter Get it down to its uh thinnest with all 81 layers and be able to roll out the Zatar pinwheels So as per use I'm going to do pretty Much An identical workflow to what I did on The second Fold I stretch out the sheets to when I Flip it it's going to be about The width of the belt If you're looking really closely you can Probably notice that the overall sheets Just a little crisper And straighter and and it's because There's more layers and more tension Built up between the layers like that
The whole thing is just stiffer and so It goes through the sheeter a lot Smoother Smoother than my sheeter sounding these Days there's something going on that I I Need to grease it need to just take a Look at it So I'm going to finish off at A level eight And now I'm going to indent three times For the sake of Consistency I'll trim off the edge and here this is The fully laminated amount of layers Right here So you can see all of them now this is Going to get rolled thin on the next Full rollout and go on the table [Music] [Music] Foreign Really looking forward to having a Warehouse For the sake of dealing with something That I think every single Kitchen in you Know the country and probably around the World deals with is Constant irregular interruptions with Deliveries it's a real luxury you could Say a privilege to get to a point that You have a location that's dedicated to This uh you know nowadays we get such a Large volume of ingredients uh you know We're getting like a palette of butter
Right now This croissant dough has rested we've Gone through the lamination process and Now we're going to roll out the satzar Pinwheels with it Oh At this point it's gotten its three sets Of folds to create all 81 layers of Dough butter dough butter dough butter And in the process uh the whole team is Laminating the day sheets so you can see Various stages right now we have just a Sheet of croissant dough nestled atop of Another sheet of croissant dough butter That's waiting in the wings to laminate We've got a sheet here that's gotten Two sets of folds so it's been indented Twice Another one that's gotten two in the Fridge we have more that have gotten Three this Sheet's complete so I'm going To go ahead and get it set for the Creation of these SATA pinwheels And just to give you a peek of what this Dough looks like All the layers of butter and dough are Extremely prominent this one block Now gets flattened out into a sheet so All the layers that you see here of Course I've got a pretty thick sheet so I'm going to now take it through the the Sheeter to thin it out first step is Just passing it through and seeing how It does
And now what I'm trying to do is stretch The sheet out to the width of the belt There is an at-home variation to this And it's the rolling pin this is like a I guess you could call it like a very Sophisticated rolling pin and we're Making a lot of these if you laminated a Lot less at home then you would have a Block of dough that still is small Enough to manipulate by hand I have this Little dial here which measures the Millimeters of space between my two Rollers So right now I'm at a 12th that Represents 12 millimeters of space Between my rollers actually a lot of People that train here don't see this at First because you can Barely make it out but that is the that Is where it's set so right now it's set To a number 12 setting on this Particular scale 30 being the largest opening between These rollers so if I open this guy up That's the maximum distance that I'm Going to get between the two rollers And as I close the dial down the rollers Get closer and closer together And I'm going to take this one down all The way to a five my final pastries each Of them have a slightly different end Point so like the DNA chocolatines end At an eight and different pastries end At a different uh final thickness and
That's based on trial and error of Proofing these things and deciding how Big of a final pastry do we want to Produce the thinner you go the longer Your sheet is the more individual Pastries you can create of course They're only going to rise to a certain Degree as well and so we're balancing Between the final product size versus The thickness on the on the roller and As I go down I can make these smaller And smaller Meanwhile my sheet is Getting longer and longer [Music] I've got this little trick up my sleeve I'm gonna put this rolling pin down I Find this to be very satisfying [Music] Roll it once around And then let it catch on those catches [Music] Now I've got this fully rolled up Sheet which we're going to take to the Table and make the SATA pinwheel switch So I've got my final uh roll out Of these zatar pinwheels I'm gonna unroll it on the table and I'm Actually unrolling it in reverse because This particular side Of my sheet is just a little less Pretty So I've got a nice smooth side here and That will be my outer layer of my Pinwheel and this side is is okay but it
Was my dry side so the dough had a Little bit of dryness on top and you can See the texture as we rolled it out that There's still some dryness that dough is Going to rehydrate itself through the Moisture of the rest of the the dough Over the course of the proofing process It's better for it to be on the inside Where it can do that whereas on the Outside it might maintain that that Little bit of dryness texture Now I'm unstretching the sheet Because what's happened is I've Stretched it out on that sheeter and Created tension it's kind of like Pulling a rubber band well if you pull a Rubber band too much what happens it Springs back same thing here if I don't Stretch it the opposite way then my Sheet is going to spring back on itself As I Go to make these pinwheels so next step In the process Is just taking this pace that we made And spreading it over what's going to be The inside of the final pastry And my guess I'm going to need most of This but I'm going to give it a spread First and then decide how much more to Add what's nice about this spice Blend Or I suppose not nice if you do it wrong Is uh it packs a lot of flavor so a Little goes a long way I'm just trying To create a nice thin layer of even
Coating and that's all you need you Don't have to cake this this stuff on Zata is hard to pinpoint a similarity to Other than the the kind of mixture of Ingredients like the Sesame and the Thyme you know if you are very familiar With each of those individual flavors Then you might be able to imagine the Combination but The combination itself is quite unique It's definitely very Herby uh and a bit Earthy it's got its own thing going on And so you can't like say oh it's it's a Lot like this or a lot like that it's Really it it really is a spice blend That deserves its own name because it It's fairly a it's a fairly unique Flavor profile and perhaps it's not for Everybody uh this flavor profile in the Sense that if you're unfamiliar with it Maybe it would be more of an acquired Taste Although I think it becomes a little bit More Universal especially when paired With the balancing yogurt the overall Flavor of the spices is going to have Kind of a herb forward Flavor and and even a bit of salt that Both comes from the spice blend itself And the saltiness of the the oil the Lebenet as mentioned strained yogurt we Actually use it in place of cream cheese In our house because we find it to be Just Superior in in most ways the
Lebenae is a really nice balancer and Flavor and so these can be served with a Little dollop of the of the lebene for Maximum effect I had the amount of zata That I did on here and I'm just Spreading it thin into layers and this Is all that is necessary I might not Even need any more For this I'm just using one of the Plastic dough scrapers it's in my Opinion an essential tool for a baker to Have at their disposal because it Functions like a handheld spatula So I'm just going to take the extra time Here to Get A more even spread Some of you might recognize this as the Method of making Cinnamon rolls I'm basically folding over that layer That was clean For the first Layer And I'm going to do the same from the Top From here once I have the first layer Formed My job is just to roll it up and keep it Somewhat tight as I do So I've got two halves two distinct Pinwheels now And I'm going to cut that middle to Separate the two halves from each other
So I've got my BC Clara it's Measured out to two and a half inch Intervals And I'm now going to just simply mark My dough so I know where to cut You don't have to use a Pizza cutter for this if you don't want To I think it provides a nice clean Edges but you could cut with a chef's Knife you could cut with a bench knife I Suppose I just have a need for the pizza Wheel in the other processes and so it Works well enough for the application Your dough might be a little bit more Delicate it might not be quite as Chilled I know I struggled with that in The garage environment where my Environment just wasn't as well Temperature controlled my Refrigeration Which was Literally homemade Didn't work quite as effectively as the Commercial walk-in does and so When the dough is warmer In particular it's not as uh It's not as forgiving as when it's Colder and so you might opt for a chef Knife at at that point to get a cleaner Cut if you've got more delicate dough I'm now going to take Sheet trays And arrange these in twelves Probably notice I'm giving them a light Press
And also tucking that Tail So that during the baking process The tail doesn't completely unfurl but Rather Hugs the pastry [Music] The amount of pastries you can put on a Sheet tray You know depend on your final Result so 12 is a nice safe number where We know that these will not End up interfering with one another So one sheet of this croissant dough Is roughly Seven kilos Of dough plus the butter that we add to It and that one sheet so far I've got Two trays of 12 24. So 60 even uh pinwheels from that one Sheet the cost of producing these is As you can imagine quite High uh We are always nowadays When we make videos not always but Oftentimes we're missing some important Elements of uh of the timing that it Takes and even on a longer video if You've watched any of our longer Segments you see maybe an hour footage But you see In our footage that actually takes Multiple days of Process so to make this croissant dough The first day is mixing and bulk
Fermentation of course the the Ingredients themselves are about as Expensive as you can get There's Close to I think 40 percent or so Baker's percentage in butter alone uh in The dough and butter is no inexpensive Ingredient especially these days We use organic flour in our products and So day one is mixing bulk fermenting Then stretching out the croissant dough To get it ready for lamination and Chilling there's two different Temperature controls on the first day You have to have the first process start Warm in order to do the bulk Fermentation properly mid 80s but then The dough has to be chilled Prior to lamination we go about Lamination as though it's no big deal Anymore because we have systems but when We started all of these individual Variables had to be Trial and errored for many many months To figure out the exact system and order Of operations the exact temperature that The does need to be that the butter Needs to be in order to actually produce Laminated dough so day two comes around Or I suppose really much later on day One after the stretched out bulk Fermented sheets of croissant have time To chill all the way to refrigerated Temperatures we combine them with warm
Butter and by warm butter I don't mean 70 degree Mudder I actually mean 60 Degree butter so it has to be cold at First and just barely thaw to where it's Starting to become pliable there's only About a five degree temperature range That the butter can be at its starting Position in order for you to be able to Roll it out through the sheeter without Cracking it or melting it uh and to get Even layers of croissant dough that that Five degree range is say 58 degrees Fahrenheit to 63 some Butters depending On where you're sourcing your butter Might tolerate a slightly warmer Temperature by a few degrees some Butters might tolerate a slightly colder Temperature we've learned that over the Years where we've tried different Butters and have had to do different Things anyway you get the butter get it To 60 degrees and now you have Refrigerated dough and just somewhat Thawed butter going into the lamination Process which is what we're what we then Need to do on day two once laminated Uh we can do the rollout and before this Product comes to life It still has a full shift nearly eight Hours sometimes longer uh in the in the Proofing environment before it goes to Bay so we often will laminate on day two Roll out bring the products to our Walk in let them cool down a little come
To a temperature stable moment you could Go directly to the proofer from the Table Although if you're making a lot of Pastries like we have all of these ready To go so suppose I rolled these somewhat Warm uh pastries that are room Temperature into the proofer and coupled Them with cold ones the cold ones are Going to proof a little bit slower than The ones that are already at ambient Temperature and so That's another important consideration Why proofing and are refrigerating in Between makes a lot of sense so we Refrigerate in between on day two and Then day three is when we pull out the Croissant dough throw it in the proofer Uh all day then egg wash it then bake it Then there might even be a topping Component for some of them and then Finally after three days worth of work Uh you have your final uh croissant Product beautifully summarized in our in Our videos into whatever length ranging From a few minutes to maybe uh maybe a Couple hours in a shot Foreign [Music] [Music] My wife introduced me many years ago oh Really so I'm not the first one to come In and buy a huge amount I never use cream cheese anymore you
Know like uh If we ever have like Bagels at home or Something Always lebenet not cream cheese lemonade Jam and uh toast it's very good thank You so much That's it So you have the one that I like this is Uh this one's traditional Lebanese mix And it's a little bit different than The one that we used today which was all We had it still has the same ingredients But they're Blended I think in slightly Different ratios so I'm going to argue That tomorrow's Pinwheels will be Even better Thank you [Music] [Music] Foreign [Music] Oh yeah until like like yesterday was Your first time ever trying it So it's a very Herby and savory flavor And the lemonade does a really good job To like balance Balance it out and you can see the Texture of the Lebanese Very fluffy and stiff Once you try this in my opinion cream Cheese is just not very appealing Anymore I'm not gonna lie I had some Cream cheese recently
But most the time I choose lebanay Because it's it's got a really nice Flavor to it and and an equally nice Texture so here we go Thank you You like the balance of that The zatar is like an Herby taste to it And the lemonade gives it just the right Balance So you don't get them It's not so salty which otherwise I mean Some people really just love the zatar On its own But I think the lemonade brings it to Another Layer so we're going to be selling these Pinwheels here with uh with little side Dishes of lemonade and people can enjoy Both and have a nice savory treat so It's pretty good zato pinwheels [Music] Thank you